“One of us must go”: Parisian hotel where Oscar Wilde spent his final days

Paris is famous for its luxurious hotels, but behind the facades of some of them lie truly dark and gripping stories. One such place is the once-modest “Hôtel d’Alsace” on Rue de Beauhar. Today, it is the five-star boutique hotel “L’Hotel,” whose guests are often unaware of the dramas these walls have witnessed. It was here, on November 30, 1900, that the life of one of the wittiest writers of the Victorian era — Oscar Wilde — came to an end.

Today, it’s a luxurious boutique hotel. Many who stay here don’t even know what stories these walls can tell… On the other hand, hundreds of literature fans come to Paris the see the place where Oscar Wilde died.

I came here on a cold December day during my 35th birthday celebrations, and as a big Wilde’s admirer, I was mesmerized.

Just before his death, lying in his room, Wilde uttered a phrase that has gone down in history: “My wallpaper and I are engaged in a deadly duel. One of us will have to go.”

From world fame to utter poverty

The end of the great aesthete’s life was tragic: living on credit. After his imprisonment and exile from England, Wilde was left penniless. At the Hôtel d’Alsace, he lived solely on the generosity and credit of the building’s owner, Jean Dupoire.

According to the hotel owner’s recollections, the writer drank up to a liter of brandy every day right in his room. And that’s not counting the absinthe and wine he ordered in Parisian cafés.

The status of a “freeloader” followed Oscar Wilde at the sunset of his life. Despite the help and generosity of close friends, Oscar continued to lead a lavish lifestyle, which caused many acquaintances to turn away from him.

In August 1900, during a dinner with his close friend Alfred Douglas, Wilde made a grim joke about his health and future:

“I don’t think I’ll live to see the next century. If a new century dawns and I’m still alive, the English simply won’t be able to bear it. ”

— Oscar Wilde

This prophecy proved frighteningly accurate. Douglas never saw the writer alive again. Just three months later, Oscar Wilde died from complications of acute otitis media, spending his final days in terrible pain and poverty.

How to legally get inside L’Hotel

Many people are often afraid to step into five-star boutique hotels. It’s not that hard in our case! Handy tips:

✔ You can stop by for a cocktail or tea. The hotel features a stylish, intimate bar called Le Bar. You don’t have to book a room for hundreds of euros — just order a cup of coffee or a cocktail (such as the signature Wilde) to legally explore the historic interiors and spiral staircase.
✔Also, of course, you can book that very room. The room where Wilde died is now called The Oscar Wilde Suite (Room No. 16). It still features period décor, photographs of the writer, and even letters from the hotel administration demanding payment of his bills.

How to get there

13 Rue des Beaux Arts.

Nearest metro stations: Saint-Germain-des-Prés (Line 4) or Mabillon (Line 10). It’s literally a 5-minute walk from either station.

Ready-made walking tour “In the footsteps of Wilde in Paris”

Continue your walk through places associated with the writer that are within walking distance.

Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots is located a 5-minute walk away on Boulevard Saint-Germain. Here, Wilde drank that very absinthe and mingled with the French bohemian crowd.

“Lapérouse” Restaurant is a historic spot on the Seine embankment (a 10-minute walk), where the writer often dined on credit.

Père Lachaise Cemetery…The final stop. This is where Wilde’s remains were reinterred. Take a look at the famous monument in the form of a winged sphinx, which fans have covered with thousands of kisses (it is now protected by glass).

Interactive features and photo tips (for Instagram/Pinterest)

Best spot for photos is the main highlight of L’Hotel’s interior is the stunning circular spiral staircase with an open atrium. It’s the perfect spot for a “looking up” or “looking down” shot.

Also, the famous lobby cocktail bar at the ground floor is absolutely stunning and elegant.